All people have different electrical and mechanical abilities. This chart is not meant to be used by persons who do not possess the ability to safely handle a test meter or the tools required to perform the repairs needed by your appliance. Please err on the side of caution and when in doubt, hire a professionally trained Technician to repair your appliance. We do not accept any responsibility for a misdiagnosis or the further damage to your appliance, property or person. These hints are merely a pointer into which direction you may be able to look in order to solve your problem if you have the skill to undertake the repair.
- Will not complete a cycle
-Move the setting one degree to see if it will continue. This may indicate the timer motor cam is worn.
-Test the timer for mechanical functions.
-Check timer actions against timer cycle chart.
-If used, check your sani thermostat for tub contact or continuity.
-Check connections at timer for secureness.
-Check timer motor leads.
-See if the water supply is turned on and not blocked.
-See if the float or float switch is stuck.
-Check the water valve screen for blockage.
-Test the timer for power out to the water valve.
-Test the solenoid on the water valve for continuity.
-Check the drain valve for kinks or blockage.
-See if the timer is advancing to the drain cycle.
-See if the flapper valve or drain solenoid is operating.
-See if the drain impeller is worn or damaged.
- Will not clean the dishes
-Test for water entering the unit.
-Test the water temperature in the dishwasher.
-Check that the pump is recirculating the water.
-Check the spray arm for a split in the side.
-Check the internal water flow gaskets for leaks.
-Make sure that the unit is draining after each wash.
-Make sure that the dishwasher is filling with enough water
-Ensure that the dishwasher is loaded properly.
-Try a different or fresh detergent.
-Test your electrical supply to the unit.
-Test for power to the timer
- Water leak at bottom of machine
-Test air gap for mineral deposits. This will cause the water to spray out of the air inlet.
-Test for cracks in the tub.
-Test the float switch seal.
-Test the heater element where it enters the tub. There are gaskets that can leak.
-Test the hose clamps.
-Test the hoses for leaks.
- Water leaking from the door.
-Test the corner seals and bottom dam seal.
-Test the door seal.
-Test for a loose or a bent door latch.
-Test for over-filling. This could be from the float switch.
-Test the spray arm for a split. If water sprays directly at the bottom of the door, it will create a leak.
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-Test the power to the motor
-Test timer connections
-Test water pressure switch
-Test wiring harness for broken or burnt wires
-Make sure pump will turn
-Test belt or pump coupler
-Test motor and wiring to motor
-Test the spline inside the agitator. Sometimes it will strip.
-Test transmission gear box
-Test water pressure (level) switch
-NOTE: Washer may only agitate when tub is full of water
- Washer will not function. The motor does not make a noise.
-Test power cord and connections to washer
-Test power supply at wall outlet.
-Test timer connections and contact points.
-Test water inlet valve
-Test water pressure or level switch
- Washer will not fill with water
-Check for kinked inlet hoses, or plugged screens
-Test for power to the washer
-Test power supply at wall
-Test timer connections and contact points
-Test water inlet valve
-Test water pressure (level) switch
-Test water temperature switch
-Test belt or coupler
-Test motor
-Test pulley or coupler
-Test the pressure switch
-Test timer contact point
- Water will not drain from the tub
-Test belt or coupler
-Test drain hose for kink or blockage
-Test pump pulley or coupler from motor to pump
-Test the lid switch for continuity and action
-Test the motor
-Test the pump
-Test the timer and contact points
-Sometime a garment will get trapped in the pump
- Washer will not drain or spin, but does agitate
-Test lid switch
-Test water level switch
-Test pump
-Test drain hose
- Washer is very noisy during spin
-Test spin bearings and/or superstructure of washer
- Washer goes out of balance too often
-Test snubber assembly
-Test front or rear leveling legs
-Test suspension pads
-Test suspension plate
-Test suspension springs
-Test to make sure shipping straps are removed or have not tangled up in the system.
-Check tub support
- Washer agitates intermittently
-Test agitate gear and agitate cam
-Test ball and thrust washer
-Test shift actuator and agitate cam
- Washer spins too slowly, everything else works
-Test clutch
-Test for clothes between basket and tub
-Test spin bearings
- Washer tries to agitate during spin
-Test agitate cam
-Test shift actuator
- Washer will not agitate or spin, but the motor runs
-Test motor coupler
-Test worm gear and main drive gear
- Washer will not agitate, but the motor runs, and it will fill and spin
-Test agitator shaft, agitate cam, cam followers and spring
-Test agitator spline
-Test connecting rack
-Test shift actuator and agitate cam
-Test worm gear and main drive gear
- Washer will not agitate, spin, or pump out water. Motor will not run, but the washer fills
-Test motor and/or motor wiring harness
-Test the pump
-Test the timer
-Test water level switch
- Washer will not drain, but will agitate, fill and the motor runsduring drain cycle
-Check drain hose for kinks or blockage
-Test pump for broken impeller or blockage
- Washer will not fill, but it will agitate and spin
-Test fill valve
-Test timer
-Test water level switch
-Test water temperature selector switch.
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- Clothes are not completely drying
-Test all air flow ducts for blockage
-Test all thermostats
-Test blower fan for proper air flow
-Test for belt slippage.
-Test heat selector switch
-Test heating elements for breaks
-Test lint screen
-Test switch mounted on motor
-Test timer
-Test all thermostats
-Test heating element for shorts against surrounding can
-Test blower fan for frozen bushings.
-Test door switch
-Test drum belt
-Test drum bushings
-Test idler arm and wheel
-Test motor for power
-Test support rollers or pads
-Test timer
-Test all thermostats
-Test circuit breakers or fuses
-Test heat selector switch
-Test heater element for breaks (Most Popular Problem)
-Test switch mounted on motor. Two of the terminals are for the heater element operation.
-Test terminals going to heater elements
-Test timer
-Test PUSH TO START switch
-Test connections from power cord to terminal block
-Test door switch
-Test power at outlet. Should read 110 or 220/240 volts
-Test timer for power
-Try door switch for action or clicking noise
-Test for power to timer motor
-Test sensors (on some models)
-Test thermostats
-Test timer motor for advancing
-Test timer switch - make sure it leads to timer motor
*On Canadian built ranges or ranges imported and modified before NAFTA's standards agreement took place, you should always start with the fuse(s) for any power problems that you are incurring.
-Test BAKE/BROIL switch
-Test door gaskets
-Test thermostat for temperature cycles
-Make sure cooking pans are placed in middle of rack
- Oven temperature is wrong to thermostat setting
-Test broil element for staying on
-Test for broken thermostat bulb or tube
-Test for kink in thermostat bulb or tube
-Test oven door seal
-Test thermostat for proper operation
-Make sure thermostat bulb is not placed wrong in oven. Should be hanging from clip along top.
- Surface units only get warm
-Test for low-voltage conditions
-Test plug-in blocks for burnt connections
-Test surface switches
-Test terminals on plug-in units
-Test wiring for burnt connections
- Surface units will not heat at all
-Test continuity through element coils
-Test for power to range/oven
-Test switches for burnt terminals
-Test wiring from switch(es) to terminal blocks
-With power disconnected, check plug-in blocks for burnt terminal connections.
-With power disconnected, check surface elements for burnt terminal connections.
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- Compressor runs all the time
-Test door gaskets
-Test for defrost heater staying on
-Test for interior light staying on
-Test thermostat for welded contact points
-Make sure refrigerator is not located in extreme heat.
-System may be overcharged or undercharged
- Compressor runs for just a few seconds then clicks off
-Test compressor amperage draw and compare to the I.D. plate on the compressor body
-Test condenser fan
-Test for lint in condenser coils
-Test for low-voltage conditions
-Test freezer fan
-Test protective overload
-Test thermostat for short cycles
-Make sure back cover is in place
- Evaporator coil blocked with ice
-Test defrost heater
-Test defrost termination switch
-Test defrost timer
-Test door seals
-Check for drain being plugged
-Test for air flow restriction
-Test for defrost element staying on
-Test for iced-up evaporator coils
-Test freezer compartment fan
-Check freezer door gaskets
-Test thermostat
-Too much food in freezer
- Refrigerator compressor runs but will not get cold
-Test for leaks
-Test for lint in condenser coils
-Compressor may not be pumping
-Defrost timer may be stuck on. Check defrost timer
-Refrigerant line could be restricted
- Refrigerator will not run
-Check compressor
-Test defrost timer (frost free models)
-Test for low-voltage condition. This can be caused by extension cords. Remove and re-route if possible.
-Test power at wall socket
-Test power cord to refrigerator
-Test thermostat
-Test wiring to compressor
-Check the fan blade for wear in the hub.
-Check the fan blade for a broken blade.
-Check to see if the motor bearings are worn out.
-Check to see if the air flow is plugged at the exit point.
-Check for power to the unit.
-Does the light work?
-Check for a loose connection at the junction box.
-Check the motor windings.
-Check the fan switch.
-Check the sensi-thermostat. (on some models).
-Try a new bulb.
-Check for power to the unit.
-Does the fan work?
-Check for a loose connection at the junction box.
-Check the light switch.
Remember for safety's sake to change your range hood's grease filter before it becomes a fire hazard
- Freezer runs but is warm:
-Upright freezer door maybe ajar.
-Check gasket for a tear or leaking.
-Cold control may be set too low or has lost calibration.
-Sealed system maybe low on refrigerant, call a certified Technician.
- Indicator light flickers:
-Neon light probably needs replacing.
- Compressor clunks on shutoff:
-Internal mounting springs may be off, unit would need replacing by a certified Technician.
-Check the lid / door gasket for tears or twisting.
-Check the magnet for sealing strength.
-Check the hinge springs for tension.
-Check the hinge bushings for wear.
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